Yet Another New Floor Post - Start to finish floor replacement

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Anonymous

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Yet Another New Floor Post - Start to finish floor replacement
« Reply #15 on: June 10, 2004, 02:00:15 PM »
Quote from: \"jack22182\":2gsfsga9
:D
We did have what looks like some fresh rain water that had migrated between the foam and the hull, but so far the inside of hull looks pristine once the foam and chopped strands are removed. I will keep this in mind but for now we will probably look for any bad areas and do spot corrections if necessary.[/quote]
I found the foam experiences reported here very interesting, as the Snoopy never seemed to have any foam in the bottom.  Because of this the entire inside of the hull was exposed to water, causing mild breakdown of the inside surface of the laminate.

There is also some chemical incursion in the rear section, I imagine this is where water pooled most often.

We will grind down to good laminate and lay up a couple of layers to repair and strenghten.

Will let you know how it goes. :p

As for the weather, we are VERY LUCKY to be located in the Pacific Northwest (Seattle Area) as the temperature never really gets too hot.  In fact, if summer this year is anywhere close to last year, there should be many days of ideal temperatures for working with Resins.

  :cool:  
Snoopn\'

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jack22182

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Yet Another New Floor Post - Start to finish floor replacement
« Reply #16 on: June 25, 2004, 10:52:27 PM »
Quick progress update, no pics - yesterday afternoon I finished cutting out the floor around the sump and engine mounts. By far this is was the worst area in terms of rot and stinky, messy, smelly gunk, rotten wood, water, oil, and gas all mixed together. There were some small cracks in the fiberglass where the floor meets the hull in this area and it\'s obvious that water was allowed to seep in over the years, along with spilled oil from when the hydraulic pump was filled or worked on, and a bit of gas from the occasional leak.

I am concerned about the structural integrity of the motor mounts and the aft beam that make up the sump well. There are some rotted areas but I think that it will be possible to repair and restore as opposed to replace. The wood immediately under the mounts seems fine.

The transom seems to be in good shape.

Tomorrow and Sunday will be big boat work days. My goal is to have all the rest of the foam removed, all the rotted wood removed, and all the old chopper fiberglass and fillet ground down to the hull so we can begin stringer replacement soon. Once all the dead wood and fiberglass is removed I plan to wash everything down with degreaser to get rid of the oil as much as I can, then let everything dry out and restore the intact stringer and motor mount wood with CPES, then build up the small areas of missing wood with epoxy putty. Most of one stringer will be replaced, and about half of the other one will be replaced. I plan to lay up the stringers and other bilge wood with epoxy and fiberglass, then glass the floor in with polyester resin and fiberglass. Epoxy is a lot more expensive but from what I understand Rot Doctor does not recommend using polyester resin over wood that has been restored with CPES. Apparently it is OK to use epoxy resin to repair or cover polyester, but it is a no-no to use polyester over epoxy.

For those of you who have done this before on similar boats, did you find that the stringers are typically the same height (as measured from bottom/floor to top) along their entire length? The section of hull where my stringers are bad appears to be completely flat so I assume that I will have to rip the stringers the same width (height) along their entire length, but I will measure to be certain.

Jack

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akw4572

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Yet Another New Floor Post - Start to finish floor replacement
« Reply #17 on: June 27, 2004, 09:36:16 AM »
they are the same plane across, but the wood is not the same height across the width of the floor, because they don\'t start at the same depth.

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jack22182

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Yet Another New Floor Post - Start to finish floor replacement
« Reply #18 on: June 27, 2004, 10:23:37 AM »
Thanks AKW - the side stringers are obliterated in the aft section so it\'s hard to tell.

For now my plan is to put in oversized (too tall) stringers and then snap a chalk line where the top should be and cut them to right height after they are in the boat.

Here are some updated photos-

Floor stripped all the way to the sump:

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jack22182

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Yet Another New Floor Post - Start to finish floor replacement
« Reply #19 on: June 27, 2004, 10:27:42 AM »
The aft beam at the sump was rotten. I pulled it right out with my hands. Here is a pic of the sump showing the missing aft beam and rotten motor mount wood. The motor mounts appear solid back where the motor is attached. I dried this area out all night with a space heater and plan to inspect some more today.

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jack22182

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Yet Another New Floor Post - Start to finish floor replacement
« Reply #20 on: June 27, 2004, 10:29:34 AM »
The fiberglass is cracked around this little bilge pump pedestal. I plan to cut it away replace any bad wood underneath, then fiberglass it back in. I also found a long crack in the fiberglass at the base of the transom. Tapping the transom revealed a couple of soft spots, but so far it seems to be in good shape. I plan to drill some test holes in the transom today to inspect, and if necessary, dry and inject with CPES, then epoxy.

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jack22182

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Yet Another New Floor Post - Start to finish floor replacement
« Reply #21 on: June 27, 2004, 10:31:45 AM »
Here is the bad wood I pulled out from the sump area. The top piece is what I am calling the \"aft beam\" at the sump, the bottom is a larger piece of plywood that was in front of it, tied to the stringers. I plan to replace both with pressure treated wood.

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jack22182

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Yet Another New Floor Post - Start to finish floor replacement
« Reply #22 on: July 09, 2004, 09:30:19 PM »
Here\'s a quick update. Lots of work planned for tomorrow. I hope to get the splash well completely fiberglassed - it has a couple of bad cracks so I just want to get those filled and put a fresh layer of glass over top to reinforce what\'s there. The fiberglass where the front of the splash well where it met the rotten wooden bulkhead was paper thin and full of holes, probably damaged from long term exposure to bad wood and moisture.

I think last week\'s treatment of the rotted stringer wood with CPES went very well. The CPES has cured and the wood that was treated seems very solid now. It needs a coat of regular layup epoxy to finish it up, then the missing wood needs to be built back up with epoxy putty. That is scheduled for tomorrow.

Today I spent some time after work grinding down the old stringer tabbing and scuffing the oil contamination off of the original fiberglass in the bottom.  I had to stop because I wore out the 3M scuffer pad I was using on my grinder.

I honeycomb drilled through the transom laminate a few weeks back to create inspection and treatment holes. Much of the transom core wood seemed to be in good shape, but damp. There were a few areas where the wood was wet and some small areas where I could not get any samples to come out on the drill bit - they seemed to be voids. I also found some areas around some stern mounted hardware where water was getting in from the outside, and the previously mentioned obvious cracks in the splash well fiberglass on the inside allowed it to get really soaked in there. I spent two weeks with a space heater on the transom 24x7 to dry it out, then last weekend I injected the CPES into the holes. Some of the holes took the CPES readily, especially where the voids were, but most did not. A lot of CPES ended up in the splash well, draining out through the cracks and holes I drilled in the bottom area of the transom. It has had a week to cure so tomorrow I plan to inject regular layup epoxy into the holes, then I will fill a disposable caulk tube with thickened epoxy and force as much as I can into every hole, until it starts coming out other holes. This should fill up the void spaces.



Edited By jack22182 on 1089426960

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jack22182

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Yet Another New Floor Post - Start to finish floor replacement
« Reply #23 on: July 09, 2004, 09:37:12 PM »
Here is a pic of the transom with inspection/drying/treatment holes drilled, after treating with CPES:

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jack22182

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« Reply #24 on: July 09, 2004, 09:38:10 PM »
Freshly scuffed hull inside:

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jack22182

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« Reply #25 on: July 09, 2004, 09:39:06 PM »
I killed my scuffer pad before I finished all scuffing, but it\'s almost done:

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jack22182

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« Reply #26 on: July 09, 2004, 09:42:21 PM »
Port engine mount wood after treatment with CPES. Note that I cut away the laminate to inspect it. I was happy to find that the wood underneath the motor attachment was rock solid. Up by the bulkhead was very rotten. A lot of the wood had to be dug out and discarded. You can see the damaged splash well laminate where the bulkhead wood was pulled away. The CPES seems to work as advertised. It is expensive but I think it will be worth it.

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jack22182

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Yet Another New Floor Post - Start to finish floor replacement
« Reply #27 on: July 09, 2004, 09:43:37 PM »
Starboard engine mount wood. On this one you can see inspection/injection holes in the wood and in the fiberglass at the top.

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lilsinker

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Yet Another New Floor Post - Start to finish floor replacement
« Reply #28 on: July 10, 2004, 02:02:15 PM »
I\'m reading about this product called cpes. What is the lowdown on this stuff? It seems like a great product when dealing with rotten wood that\'s hard to access. Where did you find it? You said it\'s expensive, how much? I might need to get some of this for myself. Thanks!  :D
I said, GIVE ME THE ROPE!
Think you\'re \'Twain is fast?
Bring it ON!!

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jack22182

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Yet Another New Floor Post - Start to finish floor replacement
« Reply #29 on: July 10, 2004, 03:40:49 PM »
Everything you need to know you can find at The Rot Doctor. That is the manufacturer and the seller.

From my research they claim to have the only penetrating epoxy that is thinned with wood based solvents, making it more effective at soaking deep into rotten wood.

Since it is solvent based, it takes longer to cure than regular epoxy. If you inject it into hidden areas it needs a week or two.

For the rest of the fiberglass work I\'m using epoxy resin from John Greer and Assc.. I decided to use epoxy resin instead of polyester resin for the added strength.