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Messages - Haulnazz15

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1
The steering wheel itself is fairly standard, it's the metal insert (the chrome on the spokes/center) that might prove almost impossible to source outside of a junk yard/parts boat.

Here's what the steering wheel looks like without the insert.  (kind of hard to see but you get the idea)

2
General Mark Twain Discussion / Re: Finally Got It In The Water
« on: September 20, 2017, 11:12:52 AM »
Lookin' good, glad to see you got her back in the water!  What made the decision to use folding fishing seats in lieu of the usual captains chairs or a solid bench across the back?

3
The Boat Galley / Re: Old V Sonic to fix or not
« on: August 29, 2017, 01:18:46 PM »
Well, assuming the engine/outdrive are good, $2,300 is a fair deal on the structural/fiberglass work I'd guess.  However, if the interior still needs to be redone/reconstructed, and the outdrive/engine/electrical needs work, you're looking at more money than the boat is worth.  You can find plenty of decent boats for $3-4K in the 16'-20' range.  So in the end, what it worth to you to have it running?  I like my MT a lot, mostly for sentimental reasons, but if I had to spend $3K on it to get it back in top shape, I'd probably just sell it and find a boat already in good condition.  That said, I'd have to spend $6-7K to find a 20' boat as well kept as mine, and aside from maybe some cupholders or more modern styling, it's going to run similar speeds and perform just the same.  Hard to justify upgrading when it already does what I need it to.   

4
General Mark Twain Discussion / Re: Unable to steer right
« on: August 28, 2017, 03:20:18 PM »
Another thing to check is if your prop trim tab is adjusted properly.  The tab/fin right above your prop is adjustable left/right to help offset prop torque.  Usually they are positioned pretty much straight forward, but can be moved a bit to help it track straight/hands off when on plane.  It shouldn't prevent turning in any direction, but it can sure make it difficult to turn in one direction or another if the tab is mis-adjusted.  I believe the boats with power steering have a flat anode there instead of the mini-fin.

5
General Mark Twain Discussion / Re: Unable to steer right
« on: August 28, 2017, 03:16:33 PM »
Without seeing it, it's difficult to say.  Does your boat have power steering?  My MT is a decade older and has no power steering, so there is no hydraulic oil.  There is a single cylinder which connects to the steering arm of the outdrive.  Pretty easy to identify visually.  However, there is another small cylinder/reservior with a single plastic pressure hose and wires coming off of it which is attached to the transom bracket above the steering.  This is a trim sensor which works off of calibration with outdrive hydraulics and has nothing to do with steering.  If you have power steering assist, then your setup should have a separate cylinder above the steering linkage with high pressure hydraulic hoses that run to a power steering pump.

6
General Mark Twain Discussion / Re: Trailer for my 78 Mark Twain
« on: August 22, 2017, 02:50:34 PM »
Just make sure to inspect/repack the bearings on whatever you buy used.  No telling how it was maintained, and you don't want to be on the side of the interstate with cars whizzing by you at 70mph with a toasted hub.  We give the trailer a fresh shot of grease to each hub every 2-3 trips just as a precautionary measure.  Make sure tires are inflated close to max cold psi, including the spare.

7
Well, there's really not a way to lubricate the cable.  Once they corrode, it's just best to replace it.  They aren't particularly expensive ($50-60), but it's just a bit involved to replace them.  The replacement of control cables to the throttle control are a bit easier to deal with for the novice.  I do most of my purchasing from iboats.com, mercstuff.com, or similar.  I don't want to discourage you to do this yourself, but it may be more work than it's worth if you aren't familiar with it.  You'll have to remove the outdrive in order to replace the cable, which means you'll need a outdrive seal kit, and possible a way to remove the bell housing side pins to access the rear of the bell housing.  If the u-joint bellows haven't been replaced in a while, this would be a perfect time to do it as well.  It's probably a $300-400 repair for a marine shop to put in new bellows, shift cable, and drive seal kit.

As far as purchasing the throttle/shift control itself, they can get pretty pricey.  You'd probably have the best luck finding a used unit from a marine salvage place on maybe on eBay/Craigslist.  The newer controls have electronics and such that are built-in, cut-off switches, etc. which aren't applicable on 70's-model MTs.

8
General Mark Twain Discussion / Re: Trailer for my 78 Mark Twain
« on: August 11, 2017, 02:59:34 PM »
Also, just make sure that you have the proper amount of tongue weight, regardless of which trailer type you get.  Usually 7-10% of total weight is a good number for tandem axles to prevent sway.  Single axles are usually 10-15% recommended tongue weight.  That can be significant with larger loads, but when only talking a 3,500lb boat, it's only 100lbs different.

9
General Mark Twain Discussion / Re: Trailer for my 78 Mark Twain
« on: August 11, 2017, 02:50:05 PM »
Tandem axle.  I've got a 20ft w/351W (fuel tank isn't as big) and it's always been on a tandem axle.  I've always felt more confident with tandem axles, both from a weight perspective and a potential blowout/flat tire perspective.  When I've had a tire shred at 65mph, the trailer tracked straight and let me get to the shoulder without any issues.  A single axle shredding a tire gets much more exciting, lol.  I recently traded up to a newer tandem axle when I came across a good deal that let me trade up for no cost.  I bought a junk boat that was on a nice trailer and sold mine for more than the cost. 

I can't recommend having trailer brakes enough, doesn't matter if they're surge or electric.  Mine are surge brakes with brakes on both axles.  The old trailer had no brakes, and while we never had an incident in 15+ years, it is so much more confidence inspiring to have brakes that make even hurried-stops a breeze.  New one has a boarding ladder on the front, as well as LED lights which don't have to be disconnected when launching/loading.  I have since painted it red to match the boat interior, but you get the idea.



10
Disconnect the cable from the shift plate and see if it operates smoothly from there.  If it does, then you know the "intermediate shift cable" (the one going from the shift plate to the lower unit) is seized up.  If the inverse is true, you'll need a new shift cable to run from the control to the shift plate.  If it's the intermediate cable, you'll have to pull the outdrive to replace.  If it's the control cable, you'll just have to measure the cable to make sure you get the replacement cable in the same size.  You shouldn't be able to start the engine with it in forward or reverse gear, but sometimes the prop will freewheel slowly in neutral.  If it IS in gear, that means that the shift-interrupt switch is malfunctioning/bypassed.

As far as manuals are concerned, there isn't anything available specific to the Mark Twain.  The mechanical parts are almost all pretty much universal for most boats of this period, aside from small accents and such. 

11
General Mark Twain Discussion / Re: Gas Tank
« on: June 14, 2017, 08:49:40 AM »
Well the 50PSI needed for EFI isn't in the fuel tank, it's in the line from the pump to the injectors/throttle body.  The only thing that's sometimes a bit different is the need for a return line to the tank, depending on the system used. Plastic cracks just like anything else, so I'm not sure I'd choose it over metal for just that purpose.  Either way, it ought to work.  Did you swap out for an EFI engine?  I don't know of any EFI-equipped 'Twains from the factory.

12
Classifieds / Re: FS: 1981 17' OPEN BOW with 150 HP Mercury outboard
« on: June 07, 2017, 01:00:40 PM »
She is in very good condition.  You ought to get at least $3,500 out of it I'd think.  Sorry to see it go, especially for a pontoon . . . but ya gotta keep the wife happy!

13
General Mark Twain Discussion / Re: Gas Tank
« on: June 07, 2017, 12:58:41 PM »
Why would you replace it with a plastic tank?  What's wrong with the original one? I don't see why it would be prohibited as long as it was properly secured/grounded.

14
General Mark Twain Discussion / Re: Gas Tank
« on: May 25, 2017, 10:33:42 AM »
I would imagine the fuel senders are pretty much universal as long as you get one with the same armature length.  I'd think that that would be the main factor, with resistance values being the other in order to make sure the fuel gauge functions properly.

15
The Boat Galley / Re: Need help with identification.
« on: May 16, 2017, 02:34:17 PM »
I don't thank that's a Twain.  It has some similar lines, but the hull side of the MT's I've seen all have the tell-tale indentation.  It looks close to the mid-60's 16V though.  The bow lights are a funny thing, as most manufacturers shared a lot of common parts.  Mark Twain always seemed to have distinctive bow lights, so that makes me think yours might be some variant, but the deck hardware and bilge locations seem wrong.  Tough call.
http://www.antiqueboatamerica.com/admin/pictures/7/09/37195(18).JPG

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